Home Art de vivre Le Smoking : Smoking or not

Le Smoking : Smoking or not

Ce costume chic par excellence n’était à l’origine qu’une simple et vulgaire veste d’intérieur, et oui, le smoking était l’habit des smokeurs, des fumeurs, les hommes la revêtaient pour passer au fumoir, une pièce interdite aux femmes. Quand ils en sortaient, ils s’en débarrassaient pour ne pas incommoder le nez délicat de leur dame. Cette élégante pratique est née en Angleterre au sein de la cour du roi Georges V.

smoking

C’est d’ailleurs son fils, le duc de Windsor, Edouard 8, qui m’y fin à cette galanterie typiquement britannique, en gardant sa veste de smoking pour recevoir ses invités à dîner. La mode du smoking comme tenue de soirée était alors lancée. Ce sont les Américains qui imposèrent le smoking comme la tenue d’exception réservée aux très grandes occasions comme le festival de Cannes. En général sur le carton d’invitation est précisé « smoking exigé », il se porte à la tombée de la nuit mais certainement pas l’après midi. Bref, on ne porte pas un smoking n’importe où et n’importe quand, cette tenue répond à des codes très précis. Si vous n’avez jamais porté de smoking entraînez-vous avant, cela s‘appelle culotter un vêtement, essayez le la veille, ainsi vous le rendrez plus confortable et surtout vous aurez l’air d’un véritable gentleman.

Les origines
Le premier smoking était créé par les tailleurs de Henry Poole & Co pour Édouard VII du Royaume-Uni quand il était le Prince de Galles. Le début du smoking aux États-Unis est attribué à James Potter, qui a assisté au Tuxedo Park Country Club de New York en 1886 vêtu d’un veston à revers de satin brillant contrastant avec la traditionnelle jaquette-cravate blanche. Il présenta son veston comme une variante de la veste que les britanniques portent au fumoir.

smoking noeud papillon

La mode du Smoking
Aux États-Unis, le smoking devint alors une tenue de cocktail et les Américains l’adaptèrent. Ils gardèrent de son usage premier le gilet (auparavant blanc, puisque c’était celui de l’habit), qui devint noir. Le gilet devait ensuite se réduire à une ceinture en satin, le cummerbund, qu’il est toujours mal vu de porter en Grande-Bretagne et sur le Continent. Ils adoptèrent aussi le col rabattu au lieu du col droit de rigueur. James Bond, le plus célèbre porteur de smokings.

En Europe, le smoking est un costume porté pour les grandes occasions. Le veston, droit ou croisé, est constitué d’un revers de satin ou de soie. Le gilet assorti se porte par dessous la veste. Le pantalon comprend des galons de soie sur les côtés.

Les règles en Europe
Force est aujourd’hui de constater que l’usage généralisé du smoking par quelques excités du feuilleton américain qui se croient dans un épisode de La croisière s’amuse.

smoking

Disons-le bien fort : le smoking dans une grande occasion est une hérésie. En dehors de son usage traditionnel (pour le dîner et le casino), le smoking n’est tolérable que dans un cocktail dinatoire. Le smoking est donc réservé à des occasions où on n’est pas tenu d’être habillé. Au Bal des débutantes, on ne vous laissera pas entrer avec un smoking.
Nous donnerons le principe suivant : dans la mesure du possible, mettez un habit lors d’un bal ou d’une soirée à l’Opéra. Si vous ne possédez pas d’habit, ne mettez pas de smoking mais votre meilleur costume strict, le plus foncé possible, trois pièces de préférence (le trois-pièces constitue le meilleur échelon entre le costume normal et le binôme jaquette-habit). Si vous avez peur de vous sentir ridicule au milieu de smokings par centaines, sachez que le plouc, ce ne sera certainement pas vous dans cette occasion.

Smoking Deauville et Smoking Capri
Il existe deux principales coupes de smokings.
Le smoking Deauville, dont la coupe est droite, comprenant un bouton et un col châle ;
Le smoking Capri, dont la coupe est croisée, comprenant un bouton et des revers crantés. Aujourd’hui, de nombreux créateurs, de Christian Dior à Hugo Boss en passant par Dolce & Gabbana et Roberto Cavalli proposent le smoking pour hommes.

Le smoking pour femmes lancé par Yves Saint Laurent
Si à l’origine le smoking est un costume pour hommes, il est porté par les femmes depuis 1966. Cette année-là, Yves Saint Laurent déclenche une révolution dans le mode de la mode en créant le premier smoking pour femmes. Il le qualifie comme « un vêtement indispensable avec lequel la femme se sentira continuellement à la mode car c’est un vêtement de style et non de mode. Les modes passent. Le style reste ».

Comme l’avait prédit YSL, le smoking pour femmes est un indémodable. Ce costume se porte, la plupart du temps, sans gilet. Il est composé d’un pantalon à pinces, d’une veste et d’une chemise ou d’une blouse. Les femmes le portent avec des chaussures à talons, escarpins, compensés ou babies.

Le port du Smoking
Concernant la veste d’un smoking, les épaules ne doivent être ni trop étroites (sous peine de faire paraître la tête trop large), ni trop larges (au risque de la rendre trop petite). A moins de souhaiter compenser des épaules très tombantes ou de vouloir résolument rehausser sa taille, Alan Flusser conseille d’éviter les épaules à angle droit ou artificiellement larges.

S’agissant de la longueur, le principe d’une veste est de couvrir les fesses, tout en faisant apparaître les jambes les plus longues possible. Le bas de la veste doit arriver au niveau de la racine de l’ongle du pouce, lorsque le bras est laissé ballant. Une autre méthode consiste à fixer la longueur de la veste de sorte que le bas de celle-ci soit exactement à la moitié de la distance entre le haut (point de jonction avec le cou) et le bas (niveau du sol) du costume.

Smoking or No Smoking
Pour le port du smoking : Les créateurs nous en donnent des versions plus rock and roll, qui lui rendent un style plus casual. Chicissime à souhait, allure dandy assurée.

smoking

Contre le port du smoking : Classé ringard..obsolète… Il existe mille et une façon de se mettre sur son « 31 » sans avoir recours au smoking.

Le chic du chic reste et demeure tout de même le trois pièces, classe, chic et signe de personnalité ultra stylée…

Source :
princess-fashionstyle.blogspot.com

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10 comments

Autoacbc 20 janvier 2009 at 20:57

Moi je l’adore ce smoking!

Reply
youness 29 mars 2009 at 20:36

yeaaaaaaaaar la classe vrament c d luxe

Reply
fashionstyle 20 avril 2010 at 21:55

Par hasard, je tombe sur cet article…Ok pour le pompage de photos, on fait tous pareils…mais quand même les gars…pour les textes, donnez vos sources!!!
http://princess-fashionstyle.blogspot.com/search/label/Fashion%20Man?updated-max=2008-03-10T15%3A10%3A00%2B01%3A00&max-results=20

Reply
Nicolas 12 juillet 2010 at 10:37

Bonjour,

je veux me marier dans un mois, je cherche à me procurer un smoking exactement dans style de l’image du haut.
Merci de m’indiquer où est ce que je peux avoir un tel bijou!
A vous lire

Reply
Beauclair 25 février 2015 at 15:37

Le smoking peut-il se porter en trois pièces ? C’est a dire avec un gilet dans la veste ?

Reply
EYABE ESSIANE PAUL FRANK 13 octobre 2015 at 16:45

bonjour
nous sommes a istanbul et nous sommes des fabriquants de smokings chemises chaussures pantalons accessoires etc… pour grossistes.nous avons des tarifs et de la qualite defiants la concurence.si vous etes en quette des services que nous opffrons veuillez nous exposer votre preoccupation afin qu’ensemble nous l’examinions.
bien coredialement FRANK
+90 541 356 3153
essuane@burc-group.com

Reply
DEBALBE François 20 avril 2016 at 0:21

le smoking ,c’est le style ,la classe et l’élégance. J’essaye actuellement un smoking noir fumé HUGO BOSS en super 160 qui me donne ma fierté ,et surtout lors d’une soirée de mariage d’un ami ,je ne vous dis pas ,c’était du chic et de la classe !

Reply
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seo 3 mai 2016 at 21:33

Hello Web Admin, I noticed that your On-Page SEO is is missing a few factors, for one you do not use all three H tags in your post, also I notice that you are not using bold or italics properly in your SEO optimization. On-Page SEO means more now than ever since the new Google update: Panda. No longer are backlinks and simply pinging or sending out a RSS feed the key to getting Google PageRank or Alexa Rankings, You now NEED On-Page SEO. So what is good On-Page SEO?First your keyword must appear in the title.Then it must appear in the URL.You have to optimize your keyword and make sure that it has a nice keyword density of 3-5% in your article with relevant LSI (Latent Semantic Indexing). Then you should spread all H1,H2,H3 tags in your article.Your Keyword should appear in your first paragraph and in the last sentence of the page. You should have relevant usage of Bold and italics of your keyword.There should be one internal link to a page on your blog and you should have one image with an alt tag that has your keyword….wait there’s even more Now what if i told you there was a simple WordPress plugin that does all the On-Page SEO, and automatically for you? That’s right AUTOMATICALLY, just watch this 4minute video for more information at. Seo Plugin

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Clotilde Ranno 16 juin 2016 at 16:21

Le smoking est une tenue très distinctive. Difficile à porter, il doit aussi s’accommoder parfaitement avec la chemise portée en dessous. Un beau coton égyptien blanc ainsi qu’un col cassé, des poignets mousquetaires et des boutons noirs peuvent être classiquement de la partie (et sur-mesure, c’est encore mieux!)
Article très intéressant !

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